S Hotel Jamaica - Boutique All Inclusive
We loved the music running through this one. S Hotel stands on Jimmy Cliff Boulevard...
Montego Bay is usually sold at sea level, along the strip, where the hotels queue up for their piece of sand. This one sits above all of that, on Ramparts Close, on the slope that rises behind the town. The gain is immediate and it is the whole argument of the house: the bay opens out below the terrace, the coast runs away west, and in the evening the town turns into a bowl of lights. The property is locally owned rather than branded, which shows in the way the staff work and in the fact that the restaurant is a destination in its own right.
Two things separate this from the beachfront blocks. The first is the outlook, which no strip hotel can buy at any price. The second is scale: with a few dozen rooms rather than a few hundred, a stay here is closer to being a guest in a house than a number on a keycard. The shuttle solves the only real objection by putting the beach within easy reach and bringing you back up when the day is done. For a traveller who wants Montego Bay as a place rather than as a resort, the arithmetic works out.
Ramparts Close is a residential lane on the hill, minutes by road from the centre of Montego Bay and from Sangster International Airport, which makes arrival and departure easy without putting the runway under the window. The Hip Strip, Doctor Cave Beach and the town restaurants are a short drive down, and the hotel shuttle covers both the beach and the airport. What the hill gives in exchange is quiet and air: the sea breeze reaches this height, the traffic does not, and the view is permanent rather than framed by a neighbouring building.
Price: Premium
Vibe: Hillside, family run, panoramic, unhurried
Rooms: Three categories, Standard in king, queen or twin, and Deluxe Ocean View in double or king
Best For: Couples, wedding parties and their guests, travellers combining Montego Bay with the north coast
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: Dinner on the restaurant terrace as the bay below turns from water into lights
Dining: La Vista Restaurant and Bar, buffet and a la carte, Jamaican and international, with the view built into the room
Amenities: Swimming pool, gardens, event and banquet space, complimentary beach and airport shuttle
Attractions: Montego Bay town centre, the Hip Strip and Doctor Cave Beach, Sangster International Airport, all a short drive down the hill
The room list is short and easy to read. Standard rooms come in king, queen or twin double, and they are the sensible choice for a night either side of a flight. The Deluxe Ocean View rooms, in double or king, are the reason to book here rather than anywhere else, because they turn the view into something you wake up to rather than something you walk to. If the stay is more than a night, take the upgrade. The rest is straightforward: a bed, a bathroom, and a window doing the heavy lifting.
The restaurant runs both a buffet and an a la carte menu, Jamaican dishes alongside international ones, and it draws people who are not staying the night, which is the surest sign a hotel kitchen is being taken seriously. The terrace is the place to sit. Lunch gives you the bay in full colour, dinner gives you the town lighting up beneath the tables, and the bar keeps the same outlook afterwards. Breakfast up here is worth getting out of bed for, even on a morning with an early departure.
The gardens and the event space are a large part of the property working life, and Montego Bay weddings end up here for the obvious reason: the backdrop is free and it is spectacular. For a guest, that means the house has two rhythms. On a function weekend the grounds are busy and the atmosphere is celebratory. On an ordinary week the pool and the terrace belong to whoever is staying. Worth asking when booking, depending on which of the two you came for.